Archive for the Argentina Category

Whales and Other Wild Creatures

We spent four days on Peninsula Valdez, camping in a remote wild camp with a few other overlanders and lots of whales. We spent our days walking on the beach and watching for whales.

Sunset from our campsite on Peninsula Valdez

Sunset from our campsite on Peninsula Valdez


We saw lots of these little guys running down the roads in front of us. We started calling them roadrunners. meep-meep!

We saw lots of these little guys running down the roads in front of us. We started calling them roadrunners. meep-meep!


Elephant seals were sunning themselves on a beach on the north end of the peninsula.

Elephant seals were sunning themselves on a beach on the north end of the peninsula.


Quinn loves the sleeping bag Grammy and Papa bought him before the trip. He's almost completely grown into it now!

Quinn loves the sleeping bag Grammy and Papa bought him before the trip. He’s almost completely grown into it now!


The coastline is desert scrub land with beautiful blue waters. It's not as barren and lifeless as the parts of the Pacific coast that we've seen.

The coastline is desert scrub land with beautiful blue waters. It’s not as barren and lifeless as the parts of the Pacific coast that we’ve seen.


I found some whale bones on the beach during a walk one day.

I found some whale bones on the beach during a walk one day.


We found a great pebble beach near our campsite that was sheltered from the cold wind. The rocks would get warm in the sun and it made a great place to play.

We found a great pebble beach near our campsite that was sheltered from the cold wind. The rocks would get warm in the sun and it made a great place to play.


Another sunset from our campsite.

Another sunset from our campsite.


One morning we saw a great show including breaching whales.

One morning we saw a great show including breaching whales.

The whales we saw were Southern Right Whales. They come to Peninsula Valdez to give birth, and we saw lots of mother and calf pairs, with the mother demonstrating various behaviors and the calf imitating her. We were basically watching “how to be a whale” school.

After our wild camping, we booked a tour on a whale watching boat and got to see them up close.

After our wild camping, we booked a tour on a whale watching boat and got to see them up close.


We had to take this silly photo.

We had to take this silly photo.


On the lookout

On the lookout


Campgrounds around here tend to have showers available in the mornings and evenings only, so when we rolled in stinky after four nights of wild camping, we decided to use our outdoor shower rather than wait till 7pm. This marks the third time we've used it on the trip!

Campgrounds around here tend to have showers available in the mornings and evenings only, so when we rolled in stinky after four nights of wild camping, we decided to use our outdoor shower rather than wait till 7pm. This marks the third time we’ve used it on the trip!

After leaving Puerto Madryn (the biggest town near Peninsula Valdez) we started on the last southerly leg of our journey. Our first stop was in the towns of Trelew and Germain, settled in the mid-eighteen hundreds by Welsh immigrants. Two years ago there was a major paleontology discovery in the area – the biggest dinosaur yet discovered, the Titanosaurus. There’s a museum in town that has an excellent display of dinosaurs ranging from the size of a chicken all the way up to bones from the locally discovered giant.

The paleontology museum in Trelew was very impressive.

The paleontology museum in Trelew was very impressive.


Trelew and Germain are home to many tea houses that offer high tea in the afternoons. Never having enjoyed that custom in England, we decided to take part in Argentina. Why not?

Trelew and Germain are home to many tea houses that offer high tea in the afternoons. Never having enjoyed that custom in England, we decided to take part in Argentina. Why not?


We took a side trip to another national park to see orcas and penguins. We didn't see any orcas, but the penguins were in abundance.

We took a side trip to another national park to see orcas and penguins. We didn’t see any orcas, but the penguins were in abundance.


Guanacos are related to alpacas and the other camelids that call South America home.

Guanacos are related to alpacas and the other camelids that call South America home.


The area is also home to these giant, strange looking rabbit-like creatures. These two bounded down the road in front of us, veering neither left nor right, for several kilometers. We kind of felt bad for essentially chasing them with the van, but hey, if they're that dumb...

The area is also home to these giant, strange looking rabbit-like creatures. These two bounded down the road in front of us, veering neither left nor right, for several kilometers. We kind of felt bad for essentially chasing them with the van, but hey, if they’re that dumb…


We also saw some cool ostrich-like birds called ñandús. They were at least as fast as the rabbits, and smart enough to leave the road.

We also saw some cool ostrich-like birds called ñandús. They were at least as fast as the rabbits, and smart enough to leave the road.


We took a side road down the coast where we saw big skies, lonely ranches, and, and lots of wildlife. During the three hour, 100km drive we saw one tractor, no cars or trucks,  4 cowboys on horseback, and more sheep than we could count.

We took a side road down the coast where we saw big skies, lonely ranches, and, and lots of wildlife. During the three hour, 100km drive we saw one tractor, no cars or trucks, 4 cowboys on horseback, and more sheep than we could count.

Heading Down the Atlantic Coast of South America

Our last stop in Brazil before entering Uruguay was a visit to the wine region near the city of Bento Gonçalves. Oh, and there also happened to be a steam train there, so of course we rode it.

The grape orchards of southern Brazil. The owners of this vineyard generously allowed us to camp in their parking lot, so of course we had to buy some wine from them.

The grape orchards of southern Brazil. The owners of this vineyard generously allowed us to camp in their parking lot, so of course we had to buy some wine from them.

The next day we rode the Maria Fumaça railroad, a tourist train pulled by a real steam engine.

The next day we rode the Maria Fumaça railroad, a tourist train pulled by a real steam engine.

There was a constant parade of singers and performers parading through the coaches during the ride, but Q was only interested in the train.

There was a constant parade of singers and performers parading through the coaches during the ride, but Q was only interested in the train.

Q in his element.

Q in his element.

On the way south toward Uruguay, we passed through a large wetland area. The drive unexpectedly turned into a great bird and wildlife watching opportunity.

On the way south toward Uruguay, we passed through a large wetland area. The drive unexpectedly turned into a great bird and wildlife watching opportunity.

We saw a fox, capybaras, and lots of beautiful birds.

We saw a fox, capybaras, and lots of beautiful birds.

The afternoon's rains resulted in a beautiful rainbow just as we crossed the border leaving Brazil.

The afternoon’s rains resulted in a beautiful rainbow just as we crossed the border leaving Brazil.

After we checked out of Brazil, we drove to the coast to camp for the night. Once again we ended up in a deserted, off-season beach town, so we drove right out onto the beach for a blissful night listening to the waves crash.

On crossing into Uruguay the next day, we were unexpectedly surprised by the amazing smooth roads there. Gasoline in Uruguay is very expensive (something like US$6 per gallon), and so if you don’t have a lot of corrupt officials siphoning off the funds, you can have nice roads! Fortunately Uruguay is a small country, so by topping up with fuel in Brazil we didn’t have buy any gas in Uruguay. There’s our contribution to their great roads!

We stopped to see a Portuguese fort on our way into Uruguay. It was very well kept up and contained a nice little museum.

We stopped to see a Portuguese fort on our way into Uruguay. It was very well kept up and contained a nice little museum.

We spent three nights at a campground on the southern coast of Uruguay run by a Swiss couple. We got some maintenance done on the car and caught up on regular life maintenance stuff like paying bills and writing web updates.

We had the feeling right away on entering Uruguay that the whole country was “muy tranquillo.” When we asked the locals about it, they said, yes, it’s very stable, like an oasis of calm between the sometimes troubled giants of Brazil and Argentina.

We noticed that Uruguay seems to have a large population of vintage cars. No idea why we saw so many here.

We noticed that Uruguay seems to have a large population of vintage cars. No idea why we saw so many here.

Our last stop in Uruguay was the town of Colonia. The city features a historic Portuguese/Spanish historical center, and we spent a day wandering it’s tree-shaded streets.

Our first night in Colonia was spent at a tourist farm just outside of town.

Our first night in Colonia was spent at a tourist farm just outside of town.

The farm is home to the world's largest collection of pencils (as verified by Guinness.)

The farm is home to the world’s largest collection of pencils (as verified by Guinness.)

The cobble stoned streets of Colonia are lined with restaurants, shops, and small museums.

The cobble stoned streets of Colonia are lined with restaurants, shops, and small museums.

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We enjoyed a wonderful lunch including the local Tannat wine varietal at one of the town's restaurants.  (Quinn is drinking the locally-made white grape juice).

We enjoyed a wonderful lunch including the local Tannat wine varietal at one of the town’s restaurants. (Quinn is drinking the locally-made white grape juice).

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From Colonia we caught a ferry across the bay to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Argentina, like Brazil, has some problems with it’s economy. The government has set a fixed exchange rate between their currency, the Peso, and the US Dollar, and makes it very difficult for locals to obtain dollars. Consequently, there’s a market for the US Dollar, and using it to get cash instead of using credit cards or ATM machines results in everything being about 40% cheaper. It’s kind of a big deal. In addition, the best exchange rates are found at the money changers on Florida Street in Buenos Aires.

In Uruguay, it’s possible to withdraw US Dollars from the ATM machines, so throughout our time there we were madly withdrawing cash, since we need enough to live on for about a month, plus pay for shipping our van home. When we arrived via the ferry in Buenos Aires, we stopped at Florida street to exchange the money.

The problem is that since it’s technically illegal to exchange money this way, if someone rips you off there’s no recourse – you can’t go to the police. So it’s kind of scary, but it’s also very common practice, and we decided the risk was worth it.

It was pretty stressful walking around in Buenos Aires with enough cash to live on for a month. This is it in Argentinian Pesos.

It was pretty stressful walking around in Buenos Aires with enough cash to live on for a month. This is it in Argentinian Pesos.

Trying to find our Argentina SIM card in our vast collection...

Trying to find our Argentina SIM card in our vast collection…

With the cash safely stowed in our safe, we began our departure from the Buenos Aires metro area. Unfortunately we had a mishap at one of the many toll stops on the way. When passing through a very narrow toll booth lane we accidentally drove our right front tire into a cement block which succeeded in knocking our steering column off-center by quite a bit. The van still drives fine — it’s just that the wheel doesn’t sit in a straight position when the wheels are pointed straight ahead. We’ll have to get that sorted out at some point.

We are headed south down the Atlantic Coast to Peninsula Valdez, which reputedly has some great whale watching, and our timing is such that we’ll be there during peak whale season. The trip took about three days’ driving, and we really became aware of how big Argentina really is.

In the process we have discovered that we are nearing the outer limits of the range of our Spot Tracker. The Globalstar satellite network unfortunately doesn’t have good coverage in this part of South America, and unless they launch a bunch more satellites in the near future this will not change any time soon. Many thanks to Sir Todd Arbetter, Loyal and Resourceful Friend of the When Sparks Fly Expedition, who helped us verify this for us. We will continue to set up the Spot device to do daily check-ins but it is likely that the broadcast message that our parents are used to receiving regularly will not go through in most cases. We will check-in via email when we can to attempt to make up for this service gap.

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One of the stops on our way south was to see a set of cliffs that is home to the world's largest colony of burrowing parrots. Who knew there was such a thing as a burrowing parrot?

One of the stops on our way south was to see a set of cliffs that is home to the world’s largest colony of burrowing parrots. Who knew there was such a thing as a burrowing parrot?

We've had a lot of rain and overcast skies over the past couple of weeks, and it was nice to enter the drier southern part of Argentina.

We’ve had a lot of rain and overcast skies over the past couple of weeks, and it was nice to enter the drier southern part of Argentina.

Iguazu Falls and the Brazilian Pantanal

Iguazu falls straddles the border between Argentina and Brazil, and everyone told us that it was worthwhile to see both sides. So two days after we went to the Brazilian side, we decided to cross into Argentina to visit the falls from that side of the border. We booked transport in a minibus to avoid the hassle of completing import paperwork for the van.

As luck would have it, Adventure Trio showed up at the hostel we were staying at the day before we were to go and decided to come along.

For Quinn, the highlight of the day was the train between the park entrance and the falls.

For Quinn, the highlight of the day was the train between the park entrance and the falls.

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A walkway allowed us to walk across a kilometer of river to view the Devil's Throat, the heart of the falls.

A walkway allowed us to walk across a kilometer of river to view the Devil’s Throat, the heart of the falls.

The roar and power of the falls is difficult to capture in photos.

The roar and power the falls is difficult to capture in photos.

The park featured spectacular bird life.

The park featured spectacular bird life.

A rare photo of all three members of the Sparks clan.

A rare photo of all three members of the Sparks clan.

Another view of the falls

Another view of the falls

After leaving the falls we planned to visit the Pantanal region of Brazil. This remote area is unique in that it floods to a depth of up to 3 meters during the rainy season, leaving it mostly inaccessible except for the few all-season roads that run through the area. July is the dry season, making it more easily accessible. We stayed at Fazenda (ranch) Santa Clara and went on African-style wildlife drives and treks.

Quinn looking at macaws on the way to the Pantanal.

Quinn looking at macaws on the way to the Pantanal.

Even the all-season roads are somewhat primitive.

Even the all-season roads are somewhat primitive.

Parrots were everywhere.

Parrots were everywhere.

An anaconda had eaten a chicken and taken up residence in a local barn to digest its meal.

An anaconda had eaten a chicken and taken up residence in a local barn to digest its meal.

The bird life was spectacular.

The bird life was spectacular.

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Witt and Quinn relax during a boat trip along the Miranda River.

Witt and Quinn relax during a boat trip along the Miranda River.

A cormorant takes flight as the boat approaches.

A cormorant takes flight as the boat approaches.

Caymens were in abundance.

Caymens were in abundance.

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After leaving the Pantanal, we made a side trip to the touristy town of Bonita which is famous for its rivers of crystal clear water. We didn’t spend much time there, but we did find a couple of swimming holes to enjoy.

Witt tries out the zipline at one of the swimming holes.

Witt tries out the zipline at one of the swimming holes.

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On a slow morning Witt and Quinn use the Kelly Kettle to boil water for coffee.

On a slow morning Witt and Quinn use the Kelly Kettle to boil water for coffee.

We visited a sinkhole very similar to one we saw in Mexico. This one was home to beautiful macaws

We visited a sinkhole very similar to one we saw in Mexico. This one was home to beautiful macaws

Here’s a quick video of Itiapu Dam, Iguazu Falls, and Witt doing some ziplining. Enjoy!

The Land of Water

After spending so much time at high altitudes with dry, cold weather, we were looking forward to getting to Buenos Aires at sea level, where we thought it would be a little warmer. It was more humid, but at 34 degrees south latitude, it’s still on the chilly side.

We arrived in the Buenos Aires region and found the home of the amazing Herman Zapp family, who have been traveling for 15 years in a vintage car. They are currently in East Africa, but invited us to stay at their home outside Buenos Aires while we attempted to get our fridge repaired. Their home is being taken care of by Herman’s cousin, Eduardo, and his wife, Clarita, and their son, Gaspar. They gave us a very warm welcome and made us feel at home right away, even sharing meals with us.

By the second day we were there, Eduardo had already located someone who thought he could help with our fridge. Not wanting to send us out into BA traffic alone, he rode in the back of the van and directed us to the proper address. José, the fridge guy, was very helpful and to our great surprise had the original replacement compressor for our fridge in his shop. It wasn’t cheap, since imported parts in Argentina carry a 50% import duty, but the prospect of a working fridge in 3 days’ time was too good to pass up and we asked him to do the work.

We took a local commuter train into the city to visit a railway museum there. Unfortunately it was closed for a holiday, but at least there was a steam engine out front to play on.

We took a local commuter train into the city to visit a railway museum there. Unfortunately it was closed for a holiday, but at least there was a steam engine out front to play on.


Eduardo and Clarita took us on a wonderful tour of downtown BA. It was their independence day holiday, and we enjoyed some of the festivities.

Eduardo and Clarita took us on a wonderful tour of downtown BA. It was their independence day holiday, and we enjoyed some of the festivities.


The original port has been gentrified into a pedestrian walkway with restaurants and expensive waterfront condos.

The original port has been gentrified into a pedestrian walkway with restaurants and expensive waterfront condos.

Money in Argentina has proven to be a challenge. We’ve known for awhile that we needed to bring US dollars with us, since using ATM machines or credit cards gets you the official exchange rate of 9 pesos to the dollar, while the black market rate is as high as 13+ pesos to the dollar. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to find someone willing to exchange money at a good rate outside of downtown Buenos Aires. We were at times frustrated be the amount of time we spent trying to buy pesos, and so overall we didn’t get as good of a rate as we could have. Our best bet would have been to change most of our money when we were in downtown BA.

We happened upon this amazing Gothic cathedral while in the town of Lujan.

We happened upon this amazing Gothic cathedral while in the town of Lujan.


Argentinians love their yerba mate, a tea made from herbs and drunk from special mugs. It's common to see them toting around a thermos of hot water for making the tea.

Argentinians love their yerba mate, a tea made from herbs and drunk from special mugs. It’s common to see them toting around a thermos of hot water for making the tea.


Many gas stations offered a hot water dispenser where folks would re-fill their thermos for the road.

Many gas stations offered a hot water dispenser where folks would re-fill their thermos for the road.


We spent a couple of down days enjoying the trampoline and other toys at the Zapp house.

We spent a couple of down days enjoying the trampoline and other toys at the Zapp house.


Clarita, Eduardo, and ? were wonderful hosts, and we left Buenos Aires with new friends.

Clarita, Eduardo, and Gaspar were wonderful hosts, and we left Buenos Aires with new friends.


From Buenos Aires it took us three days to reach the border with Paraguay at Posadas. We enjoyed a nice campsite along the river en route.

From Buenos Aires it took us three days to reach the border with Paraguay at Posadas. We enjoyed a nice campsite along the river en route.

In Posadas we camped on the street near the river. At around 8pm a storm blew up complete with high winds and hail. Fearing for the canvas sides of our poptop, we lowered the top and moved up the road to a spot more protected from the wind.

After about 24 hours spent getting Paraguayan visas, we crossed the border into the Paraguayan town of Encarnación. Jen found a recommended mechanic on iOverlander, and we decided to stop to get our oil changed. While that was getting done, we walked to a nearby supermarket to stock up on groceries and even found an ATM machine that dispensed US dollars to replace those we’d spent in Argentina. All in under an hour! We were able to leave town that day and make it to a very nice campsite in the countryside.

The next day we stopped to visit the ruins of a couple of Jesuit missionary churches.

The next day we stopped to visit the ruins of a couple of Jesuit missionary churches.

Although it was still very overcast and rainy, the drive up the eastern side of Paraguay was very pretty. There were fields of soy beans everywhere, along with lots of tractor dealerships offering expensive new equipment. Signs for the likes of infamous agro-businesses like Cargil and Monsanto were everywhere, and we wondered what kind of genetic experiments they’re doing down here. We learned later that Paraguay is the world’s third largest exporter of soy beans.

We took the opportunity while in Paraguay to visit the Itaipu dam, the world's second largest hydro plant. This is a 1/100 scale model of it built during construction. In 2013, the dam produced over 98 TWh, supplying 75% of Paraguay's electricity needs and 17% of Brazil's.

We took the opportunity while in Paraguay to visit the Itaipu dam, the world’s second largest hydro plant. This is a 1/100 scale model of it built during construction. In 2013, the dam produced over 98 TWh, supplying 75% of Paraguay’s electricity needs and 17% of Brazil’s.

Paraguay, with it’s duty-free import status throughout the country, draws shoppers from all over South America. Cities like Ciudad del Este feature huge shopping centers. If you’re from Argentina, you can come here and buy anything from flat screen TVs to tires to whole cars for half of what they cost at home. The same is true for Brazil. In contrast to the rampant consumerism, the poorer side of Paraguay, especially in the cities, reminded us of Guatemala, with donkey carts vying for space against new Audis in the congested city streets. Traffic was some of the most congested and chaotic we’ve seen, and two days of driving around the city getting visas for Brazil left us ready to leave.

And leave we did, for the Brazilian city of Foz de Iguaçu. Everything was suddenly much more orderly on the Brazilian side, with actual traffic lights and drivers who obeyed them. We were happy to arrive at a hostel / campground near the national park that is home to the famous waterfall.

The next afternoon we went to visit the park. It being a weekend, there were lots of visitors, and we ended out standing in lines for tickets and bus rides to various parts of the park. It was worth it though, as we had a beautiful day to enjoy the falls.

Quinn enjoyed the double decker bus ride in the park.

Quinn enjoyed the double decker bus ride in the park.


Dad picks up a colorful hitchhiker

Dad picks up a colorful hitchhiker


We went for a boat ride that got us up close, personal, and soaking wet to the falls.

We went for a boat ride that got us up close, personal, and soaking wet to the falls.

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This video provides a good overview of what the falls look like from the air (since we decided not to spring for the helicopter flight)

Into Argentina and Crossing a Continent

After a beautiful sunset, we enjoyed a very quiet night on the Salar de Atacama.

After a beautiful sunset, we enjoyed a very quiet night on the Salar de Atacama.

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After taking in the sunrise the next morning it was time to head for Argentina.

After taking in the sunrise the next morning it was time to head for Argentina.

On the way we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.

On the way we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.

There were frozen salt lakes near the 14,000 ft pass we crossed. Lest anyone think we are hard core, we saw three long-distance cyclists on the same route.

There were frozen salt lakes near the 14,000 ft pass we crossed. Lest anyone think we are hard core, we saw three long-distance cyclists on the same route.

The Argentinian border post at Paso Sico.

The Argentinian border post at Paso Sico.

This could be one of the world’s loneliest border posts. After walking around inside the empty office looking for someone to stamp our passports, we finally found them eating lunch. We waited for them to finish and then completed our paperwork. We were at the border for more than an hour and saw no one else and no other vehicles.

After a four-hour drive on dirt roads we stopped for the night in the dusty mining town of San Antonio de los Cobres. (Saint Anthony of Copper – I didn’t know there was a saint of copper.) We couldn’t find a good camping option, so we splurged on a hotel with hot showers and heated rooms. Oh the luxury! There we met Chris, a motorcyclist from California.

We stop for every steam engine we see.

We stop for every steam engine we see.

We were surprised on our way into Cafayate by the amazing Quebrada de Cafayate. It reminded us of Utah and made for a beautiful afternoon's drive.

We were surprised on our way into Cafayate by the amazing Quebrada de Cafayate. It reminded us of Utah and made for a beautiful afternoon’s drive.

We spent a week in Cafayate, mostly working, but also getting a chance to taste some of the region's wines.

We spent a week in Cafayate, mostly working, but also getting a chance to taste some of the region’s wines.

Apparently eating ice cream in Argentina is the social thing to do. We even found some made without cow milk!

Apparently eating ice cream in Argentina is the social thing to do. We even found some made without cow milk!

After a few days in Cafayate, the Adventure Trio rolled in on their motorbikes. They are a family of three riding BMW motorcycles through the Americas. We first met them three years ago at the Overland Expo where their son Jack gave a talk on traveling as a family. We spent two nights together in Cafayate before heading toward Córdoba.

The Flying Sparks with the Adventure Trio. Left to right they are Sandy, Terry, and Jack.

The Flying Sparks with the Adventure Trio. Left to right they are Sandy, Terry, and Jack.

We were heading in the same direction, so we decided to meet up the first night in the town of Recreo. It happened to be the fourth of July, so we got some steaks and grilled them over the campfire. It was nice to have friends to celebrate with!

Next stop, Buenos Aires, and hopefully a working fridge!