Archive for the Peru Category

The Colca Canyon and South to Chile

Our last couple of weeks in Arequipa were mostly spent working and hanging out with our friends Michelle and Matt and their kids Emilia and Matthew. Quinn and Emilia really hit it off with their mutual love of Minecraft. We had another sleepover, and Jen and I even got to go out for a nice dinner while the two of them played!

We visited a cultural fair put on by people from the Colca region. It featured lots of local foods, music, and dancing.

We visited a cultural fair put on by people from the Colca region. It featured lots of local foods, music, and dancing.

We did a tour of the inside of the main cathedral in town. The organ, made in Belgium, has over 2000 pipes!

We did a tour of the inside of the main cathedral in town. The organ, made in Belgium, has over 2000 pipes!

The rest of the cathedral was equally impressive.

The rest of the cathedral was equally impressive.

We got to climb up onto the roof for the view. In 2001 the bell tower behind us collapsed during an earthquake and fell through the roof of the cathedral. Amazingly no one was hurt!

We got to climb up onto the roof for the view. In 2001 the bell tower behind us collapsed during an earthquake and fell through the roof of the cathedral. Amazingly no one was hurt!

Quinn was more interested in playing with the sewing machine base that served as our table at the restaurant we visited for lunch.

Quinn was more interested in playing with the sewing machine base that served as our table at the restaurant we visited for lunch.

After lunch we got to see a May Day parade work its way through the Plaza de Armas.

After lunch we got to see a May Day parade work its way through the Plaza de Armas.

On our last weekend we went to a bull fight in a nearby town. There are no matadors; the bulls fight each other. Which ever bull walks away from the fight first loses.

On our last weekend we went to a bull fight in a nearby town. There are no matadors; the bulls fight each other. Which ever bull walks away from the fight first loses.

The audience was mostly Peruvian cowboys. We were the only gringos in attendance.

The audience was mostly Peruvian cowboys. We were the only gringos in attendance.

In truth, the bull fighting wasn’t all that exciting. It mostly consisted of the bulls’ owners trying to drag them around with ropes to get them to engage with each other. Supposedly if they won’t fight they bring in a cow to get their blood pumping, but we didn’t see that happen.

On Monday evening we dropped Quinn off at Emilia’s house to play Minecraft, and Jen and I got a rare evening out together. We picked the top-rated restaurant in Trip Advisor and weren’t disappointed. They didn’t have any tables, so we sat at a small coffee table in a waiting area next to a fireplace and ordered appetizers. We had a cheese plate, followed by a selection of meats served on hot volcanic stone so they were still sizzling after 10 minutes. We enjoyed Pisco sours, a bottle of wine, and finished the whole thing up with a chocolate mousse. Yum!!

On Tuesday we packed up the van, planning to spend a few days touring the Colca Canyon before heading into Chile.

From Arequipa we climbed to a pass at 16,000 feet before descending into the canyon. We all felt tired and achy at the top.

From Arequipa we climbed to a pass at 16,000 feet before descending into the canyon. We all felt tired and achy at the top.

We found a great campsite on the rim of the canyon where we could enjoy the sunset.

We found a great campsite on the rim of the canyon where we could enjoy the sunset.

The canyon features thousand year old terraces overlooked by snow-capped peaks.

The canyon features thousand year old terraces overlooked by snow-capped peaks.

But the real highlight was the next morning. The area is home to numerous Andean condors, and they did not dissappoint, soaring majestically across the landscape.

But the real highlight was the next morning. The area is home to numerous Andean condors, and they did not dissappoint, soaring majestically across the landscape.

Jen went for a short hike to enjoy the view and the beautiful flowers.

Jen went for a short hike to enjoy the view and the beautiful flowers.

We visited the canyon as part of a loop that would take us back to the Pan Am. After we left the area frequented by tour groups, the road turned to dirt and the adventure began. After stopping to buy food for dinner in a small village market, we headed out thinking that we’d make it to the beach that night to camp. That proved optimistic, as it would take us about 7 hours to cover the next 150km of dirt roads.

The first part of the drive was mostly above 12,000 feet. The road was dusty and the scenery stunning.

The first part of the drive was mostly above 12,000 feet. The road was dusty and the scenery stunning.

The driver of this truck stopped while we were eating lunch to see if we were okay. We talked for awhile and he told us a little about the region before he headed off on his way.

The driver of this truck stopped while we were eating lunch to see if we were okay. We talked for awhile and he told us a little about the region before he headed off on his way.

We saw some vicuñas...

We saw some vicuñas…

... and even pink flamingos.

… and even pink flamingos.

After awhile we decided to pull off and camp rather than pushing on, thinking that the countryside here would be better than a gritty gas station along the Pan Am.

After awhile we decided to pull off and camp rather than pushing on, thinking that the countryside here would be better than a gritty gas station along the Pan Am.

Shortly after we set up camp a man walked by herding sheep. I asked him if we could camp here and he smiled and said yes. A few other people walked past and looked at us curiously, but they mostly seemed pretty shy and reserved.

The next morning just as we were preparing to depart a woman walked up to the van and offered us a plate of food – cooked potatoes and corn. We were amazed by her generosity. We graciously accepted the food, gave her a small gift in exchange and waved goodbye. That night we incorporated her gift into our meal.

The area near where we camped was teeming with bird life.

The area near where we camped was teeming with bird life.

It took us about 2 hours to cover the remaining 50km back to the highway. The road seemed to get worse the closer we got, and the scenery returned to the lifeless dust bowl that seems to dominate the Peruvian coast. We dropped off the passenger we’d picked up along the way and got out to kiss the blessed asphalt. (Not really, but we talked about it. 🙂 )

So smooth! So fast!

So smooth! So fast!

The plan was to go to the coast and work our way down the beach toward Chile. No sooner than I had observed that we had been from 16,000 feet to sea level in two days, we came upon a roadblock. People were lounging beside their cars, and this didn’t seem like a regular road construction stop. I got out to talk to a truck driver and discovered that there was some kind of fire and that he had been there for three days. We went up to the head of the line and a police officer told us that we couldn’t pass. When we asked how long the delay would be he smiled and shrugged his shoulders.

With that we turned around and went back to the Pan Am. We tried one other route to the coast and were again stopped by the police, who told us that there was fighting going on. We still weren’t sure exactly what was happening, but by this time it was getting late and we needed a place to stay. We found a ravine that we could drive into and be hidden from the highway. It wasn’t great, but it was very dark and the stars were beautiful.

The next day we drove past this enormous solar PV farm.

The next day we drove past this enormous solar PV farm.

Next stop Chile!

Colorful Photos from Arequipa

The cathedral on Arequipa's Plaza de Armas

The cathedral on Arequipa’s Plaza de Armas


We found a dinosaur themed park in town. Quinn was scared to go through the giant triceratops tunnel.

We found a dinosaur themed park in town. Quinn was scared to go through the giant triceratops tunnel.


We met up with Michelle, Matt and their kids Emilia and Matthew for some fun at the park.

We met up with Michelle, Matt and their kids Emilia and Matthew for some fun at the park.


There aren't as many birds here as there were in Central America, but we still find a few.

There aren’t as many birds here as there were in Central America, but we still find a few.


This is Cuy (guinea pig). It's a local delicacy that we've been seeing since southern Columbia. It's been a staple on the menu since pre-Incan times. I've been thinking that I had to try it before we leave and I finally did. Tastes like pork, but not much meat on those little bones!

This is Cuy (guinea pig). It’s a local delicacy that we’ve been seeing since southern Columbia. It’s been a staple on the menu since pre-Incan times. I’ve been thinking that I had to try it before we leave and I finally did. Tastes like pork, but not much meat on those little bones!

P1180949

Quinn attended a craft fair the first Saturday we were here.

Quinn attended a craft fair the first Saturday we were here.


We visited the stunning Santa Catalina convent.

We visited the stunning Santa Catalina convent.


The convent has been in operation for around 400 years and is still in use today. Part of it is open to tourists.

The convent has been in operation for around 400 years and is still in use today. Part of it is open to tourists.


A rare shot of all three of us.

A rare shot of all three of us.


With it's beautifully painted walls and lots of flowers, the convent is a photographer's dream.

With it’s beautifully painted walls and lots of flowers, the convent is a photographer’s dream.


We spent an hour or so with a guide wandering through what was really a small self-contained town.

We spent an hour or so with a guide wandering through what was really a small self-contained town.

P1190022

This is where then nuns (or in some cases their nannies) would do their washing. As Quinn discovered, if you block off the main channel, water is diverted into your pot where you can do your washing.

This is where then nuns (or in some cases their nannies) would do their washing. As Quinn discovered, if you block off the main channel, water is diverted into your pot where you can do your washing.

Yes, I said some of the nuns had nannies. Although they took a vow of (among other things) poverty when they entered the convent, apparently poverty is relative among nuns too. Those that came from wealthy families brought assistants with them and had better rooms and furniture.

After the nunnery we were hungry and we found a cafe across the street for second breakfast with cappuccino.

After the nunnery we were hungry and we found a cafe across the street for second breakfast with cappuccino.


Emilia visited us for a sleepover. Lots of fun was had playing Minecraft, and Jen made Q and E pancakes for breakfast.

Emilia visited us for a sleepover. Lots of fun was had playing Minecraft, and Jen made Q and E pancakes for breakfast.

On Friday afternoon we visited a museum dedicated to the frozen body of an Incan girl sacrificed atop one of the local volcanoes 500 years ago. In 1995 a climber / archaeologist discovered the frozen body at over 20,000 feet. Although it’s not a mummy because it wasn’t intentionally prepared for preservation, the cold, dry climate atop the mountain has kept it intact and preserved. During a trip to Johns Hopkins University for a cat scan, a sample was extracted from her stomach to discover what her last meal was. The entire exhibit was amazing. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the museum, so you’ll have to take my word for it.

After the mummy museum it was time for a beer. We found the local craft beer club where we enjoyed a brown and an IPA along with some chocolate.

After the mummy museum it was time for a beer. We found the local craft beer club where we enjoyed a brown and an IPA along with some chocolate.

Did you notice the new banner photo at the top of this page? It was taken in Paracas, Peru. How do you like it? Happy Travels!

The Nazca Lines and our First Week in Arequipa

Our next stop on our way south was the Nazca Lines. Officially known as geoglyphs, they’re a series of geometric patterns carved in the desert about 1500 years ago. The amazing thing is that despite being basically trenches (and only about 6 inches deep) they’ve lasted for an incredibly long time.

This is part of one of the figures near the Pan-Am highway.

This is part of one of the figures near the Pan-Am highway.

The best way to see the figures is from the air, but climbing this tower is cheaper.

The best way to see the figures is from the air, but climbing this tower is cheaper.

That night we camped at the Hotel Puerta Inca. With a swimming pool and a palapa right on the beach it was probably one of the best established campgrounds that we've seen.

That night we camped at the Hotel Puerta Inca. With a swimming pool and a palapa right on the beach it was probably one of the best established campgrounds that we’ve seen.

Each morning a few guys would arrive and gather seaweed that had washed ashore. They were taking it to the town of Nazca where they could sell it for 50 centavos (about 20 cents) per kilo (dried) to a factory that makes soaps and beauty products.

Gathering seaweed

Gathering seaweed

The next morning I went for a hike along the coast.

The next morning I went for a hike along the coast.

These guys must survive almost entirely on dead fish and birds, as nothing lives on the land.

These guys must survive almost entirely on dead fish and birds, as nothing lives on the land.

After a long drive inland from the coast, we arrived in Arequipa and began moving into our apartment here.

Quinn and Jen do some painting in the back yard.

Quinn and Jen do some painting in the back yard.

Jen met another worldschooling family online who are also happen to be staying in Arequipa. We met up in a local park one day to let the kids play. They are the Tupy family — Michelle, Matt, Emilia (10), and Matt (4) — and they document their travels both on their And Off We Went Facebook page and web page.

Michelle's two kids Matt and Emilia have fun with Quinn in a bouncy castle.

Michelle’s two kids Matt and Emilia have fun with Quinn in a bouncy castle.

We rented a boat and paddled around the duck pond in the park.

We rented a boat and paddled around the duck pond in the park.

Arequipa's leafy Plaza de Armas

Arequipa’s leafy Plaza de Armas

At a mirador overlooking the city.

At a mirador overlooking the city.

We visited a small zoo that had various members of the Alpaca family. Here's the definitive guide.

We visited a small zoo that had various members of the Alpaca family. Here’s the definitive guide.

Break-ins and Flat Tires, Oh My!

We ended out having a great time in Lima, and were kind of wishing we’d scheduled a month there instead of Arequipa. But we had a house rented through Airbnb and only a week to get there, so we headed off down the Pan Am, comforting ourselves with the knowledge that 1) an apartment in Miraflores would have been very expensive and 2) finding a place to park the van would have been a mission.

We were reminded before we left on Tuesday that Semana Santa (Holy Week) started on Thursday and that the city would pretty much empty out onto the surrounding beaches for the holiday. We didn’t have reservations anywhere and hoped things wouldn’t be too crazy.

It took us about 4 hours on good roads to reach Paracas National Park, a reserve on the coast known for its marine and bird life. Our first stop was the excellent visitor’s center. After we parked and went in, I returned to the van to get the camera. There was a small red minivan parked next to us, which in retrospect was a bit odd since it was nowhere near the closest available spot to the entrance. I got the camera and went back inside, where we spent about 30 minutes exploring the exhibits.

It wasn’t until we arrived at camp that evening when Jen pointed out that some of the cushions in the back of the van looked “disturbed” and the cam strap securing one end of the fridge had “come loose.” I inspected the outside of the car for signs of forced entry.

Yep. This is how he got in.

Yep. This is how he got in.

Amazingly, nothing in the van was missing. The guy was obviously looking for electronics, all of which were locked away in our safe, and fortunately he didn’t even find that thanks to the cover we have over the front of it. After nearly two years on the road, this was our first break-in. We were very lucky that nothing was stolen.

That evening we camped at La Mina Beach. We talked with some motor bikers camped next to us, and they recommended that we take the “off-road” route south through the park rather than going back out to the Pan-Am the way we came.

One of the fishing ports in the park.

One of the fishing ports in the park.

La Mina Beach

La Mina Beach

After almost two years on the road, the blue and orange dump truck is still a great toy.

After almost two years on the road, the blue and orange dump truck is still a great toy.

This large (about a foot in diameter) jellyfish washed onto the beach.

This large (about a foot in diameter) jellyfish washed onto the beach.

After a few hours playing on the beach the next morning we headed south. The road at first was good, but deteriorated into tracks in the desert.

Miles and miles with absolutely nothing green in sight.

Miles and miles with absolutely nothing green in sight.

The contrast between the blue waters and the barren desert is striking.

The contrast between the blue waters and the barren desert is striking.

A motley collection of 70s vintage Dodge and Chevy sedans chugged along the dusty roads laden with all manner of goods.

A motley collection of 70s vintage Dodge and Chevy sedans chugged along the dusty roads laden with all manner of goods.

At some point we lost the "main" road and followed tracks through the desert for awhile before getting back on track with the help of the GPS.

At some point we lost the “main” road and followed tracks through the desert for awhile before getting back on track with the help of the GPS.

We eventually found a spot on a hill above the beach for the night. Time for a drink!

We eventually found a spot on a hill above the beach for the night. Time for a drink!

We enjoyed a beautiful sunset with the last of our rum and pear juice.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunset with the last of our rum and pear juice.

The next morning we headed inland for about 50km to meet up with the Pan-Am once again.

The next morning we headed inland for about 50km to meet up with the Pan-Am once again.

While stopped to take some photos, we noticed our first flat tire of the trip. Thinking back to our Africa trip where it seemed as though we had nothing but flat tires until we replaced all of them, we’re pretty happy.

Jen set up the awning so we'd have some shade to work under, and Quinn helped me change the tire.

Jen set up the awning so we’d have some shade to work under, and Quinn helped me change the tire.

"Are you almost done yet, Daddy? Why is this taking so long?"

“Are you almost done yet, Daddy? Why is this taking so long?”

Once our tire repaired, we headed to the town of Huacachina where we planned to spend the night. The town is a resort oasis nestled between giant sand dunes. It would have been pretty nice except that it was crawling with Semana Santa revelers. With no good camping options in town, we splurged on a nice hotel with a pool.

We needed to get our tire fixed, so we decided to spend the afternoon visiting a local winery and a tire repair shop (two very different experiences).

The winery was nice, but the only wines they had for tasting were the super-sweet varieties that Peruvians seem to prefer. It’s somewhere between alcoholic grape juice and cough syrup.

Quinn gets a popsicle while the adults taste wine.

Quinn gets a popsicle while the adults taste wine.

On the way back we stopped at a llanteria (tire repair shop). There were about four guys sitting around, and one doing all of the work. Since it was the holiday and these guys were stuck working (or at least one of them was), I bought them beer and we talked while the one worked slaved over my tire.

$7 worth of beer: an easy way to make friends.

$7 worth of beer: an easy way to make friends.

After we returned to our hotel, I climbed a sand dune to watch the sunset. It was nice, but the dunes were crawling with sand buggies, which was a sharp contrast to the quiet evening we had enjoyed the night before.

After we returned to our hotel, I climbed a sand dune to watch the sunset. It was nice, but the dunes were crawling with sand buggies, which was a sharp contrast to the quiet evening we had enjoyed the night before.

Mudslides and Making Chocolate in Lima

After re-packing the van Friday morning and having the amazing chicken pesto sandwiches for lunch at Cafe Andino one last time, we said goodbye to our hosts and hit the road. We continued up the Santa river valley aiming for a campsite at a refugio.

After 40 minutes on a slow dirt road, we made it to the refugio at over 14,000 feet. It looked like a good base for hiking, but it was deserted and there wasn’t really a flat place to park the van, so we headed back down and camped in a pullout above the main road. It was cold and quiet and once the clouds cleared out the stars were amazing.

The refugio

The refugio

Our campsite overlooked the Santa river valley.

Our campsite overlooked the Santa river valley.

We awoke to a great view the next morning.

We awoke to a great view the next morning.

The next morning we resumed our drive to Lima. We would drop from over 14,000 feet to sea level in about four hours. As we descended the terrain became drier, and eventually only the river bottom had any plant life at all.

We had heard reports of unusual rains in the region – Our host in Huaraz, Isabel, had warned us that the main route to Lima had been washed out earlier but had been re-opened. As we headed down the valley we saw evidence of the flooding.

We were stopped a few times as crews worked to clear the roads.

We were stopped a few times as crews worked to clear the roads.

That night we camped in the small Lashay Nature Refuge

The park actually has trees, which are rare on this desert coastline. Also, it's about 500 meters above sea level, so it's a little cooler too.

The park actually has trees, which are rare on this desert coastline. Also, it’s about 500 meters above sea level, so it’s a little cooler too.

I went for a hike around the perimeter of the park and spotted lots of birds.

I went for a hike around the perimeter of the park and spotted lots of birds.

"Christ on a Crest." Great term. Thanks Melanie!

“Christ on a Crest.” Great term. Thanks Melanie!

Picnic tables! Can't remember the last time we had a campsite so well equipped.

Picnic tables! Can’t remember the last time we had a campsite so well equipped.

After a quiet night in the park we drove back to the Pan Americana and continued South toward Lima. We hadn’t planned to stop (as we visited there once before), but then we found some fun things to do with Quinn, and Jen found a family living there who wanted to meet up. We’re glad we did; we had a fun day there.

Our first stop was the electricity museum. The draw was an electric trolley, but they had lots of cool interactive exhibits too.

Our first stop was the electricity museum. The draw was an electric trolley, but they had lots of cool interactive exhibits too.

I tried to explain to Quinn how this old jukebox worked, and how we have 1000x as much music stored on a thumb drive as fits in this big machine. I don't think he got it.

I tried to explain to Quinn how this old jukebox worked, and how we have 1000x as much music stored on a thumb drive as fits in this big machine. I don’t think he got it.

We met up with Aimee and her daughter Augustina at a chocolate museum the next day.

We met up with Aimee and her daughter Augustina at a chocolate museum the next day.

Augustina is six too and the kids had a great time making chocolate.

Augustina is six too and the kids had a great time making chocolate.

New friends!

New friends!

We stayed in Miraflores, a wealthy suburb of Lima. It has high-rise apartments along the coast and a great waterfront walkway.

We stayed in Miraflores, a wealthy suburb of Lima. It has high-rise apartments along the coast and a great waterfront walkway.

Thanks for reading, and stay tuned for our next exciting update that will feature driving through a (nearly) trackless desert, our first break-in (don’t worry, nothing was stolen) and our first flat tire!