Archive for March 2015

Exploring the Cordillera Blanca – Laguna 69

Last weekend we decided to get the van out of the parking lot where it’s been for the past few weeks and go try to find lake Rajucolta, which was recommended to me by my mountain biking guide. We found the road on Pocket Earth (the app we use for navigation) and headed in.

We drove up a very pretty valley, past farms, a couple of villages, and lots of pigs on ropes. At one point as I was trying to maneuver around a campesino (peasant farmer) and his flock of sheep, the right side of the van slipped into a ditch.

This is where four wheel drive is really handy. With two wheel drive we’d have been stuck waiting for help to get us out. I locked the hubs and with Jen directing me we managed to back out of the ditch. Unfortunately these are the times when you’re too worried about getting out of the situation to think about taking pictures. But you always wish you had later!

Van not in a ditch.

Van not in a ditch.

The map showed that the road turned into a footpath at a town, but it actually continued on, and we kept driving until we finally hit a washed-out bridge and could go no further. After hunting around for a way across the river (on foot) for a half-hour we decided it was time for lunch, and then it started to rain. So the end of our hike turned out to be about 200 yards from the van. Oh well, we had a good time anyway.

The end of the road.

The end of the road.

Quinn had a good time playing in the streams and on the rocks after lunch. He said we'd hiked far enough.

Quinn had a good time playing in the streams and on the rocks after lunch. He said we’d hiked far enough.

Two days later Jen sent me out to hike to Laguna 69. I booked a bus tour and awoke early for a five AM departure. There’s something we don’t do much of! We started hiking at about 830, and it was obvious that this was going to be a hike to remember.

Laguna Orconcocho

Laguna Orconcocho

We were surrounded by high peaks throughout the hike.

We were surrounded by high peaks throughout the hike.

The creeks were swollen with the runoff from the rains.

The creeks were swollen with the runoff from the rains.

Looking up the valley. The hike started out pretty flat, but it didn't stay that way.

Looking up the valley. The hike started out pretty flat, but it didn’t stay that way.

There were waterfalls everywhere you looked.

There were waterfalls everywhere you looked.

The lake, at 15,200 feet, was an amazing glacial blue. It reminded me of Lake Louise in Canada but without the hordes of people.

The lake, at 15,200 feet, was an amazing glacial blue. It reminded me of Lake Louise in Canada but without the hordes of people.

It even had a waterfall splashing into it, just to complete the picture.

It even had a waterfall splashing into it, just to complete the picture.

Back in Huaraz, we only had a few short days before it would be time to pack up and move along. We awoke Thursday, our last full day, to clear skies.

Huascarán from our rooftop deck.

Huascarán from our rooftop deck.

There are several snow capped peaks surrounding the valley where Huaraz is located.

There are several snow capped peaks surrounding the valley where Huaraz is located.

Time to clean out the fridge. Spinach omelets, fried potatoes, and sausage anyone? No wonder I don't get to work until 10AM!

Time to clean out the fridge. Spinach omelets, fried potatoes, and sausage anyone? No wonder I don’t get to work until 10AM!

Day-trips from Huaraz, Peru

When we first move into an apartment a month always seems like such a long time. Well, here we are more than halfway through our stay here. We’ll be moving out and moving on to Arequipa a week from Friday!

One thing the limited time does, though, is to force us to get out and see the local sights – because who knows when or if we’ll be back? So on that note, here’s what we’ve been up to.

This is the city of Huaraz seen from the mountains East of town.

This is the city of Huaraz seen from the mountains East of town.

I went for a hike to laguna Apuac which is just outside of town. The taxi dropped me off at about 12,000 feet and the lake is at 15,000 feet. I felt the lack of air!

I went for a hike to laguna Apuac which is just outside of town. The taxi dropped me off at about 12,000 feet and the lake is at 15,000 feet. I felt the lack of air!

On the way down I summoned the energy to explore the Wilcahuain ruins before getting a collectivo back to town.

On the way down I summoned the energy to explore the Wilcahuain ruins before getting a collectivo back to town.

One sunny Sunday we took a taxi up to a lookout for the view.

One sunny Sunday we took a taxi up to a lookout for the view.

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Putting the finishing touches on another yummy blueberry crisp.

Putting the finishing touches on another yummy blueberry crisp.

Last Friday we took a guided tour to the ruins of Chavín on the other side of the mountains. We stopped to see this alpine lake on the way.

Last Friday we took a guided tour to the ruins of Chavín on the other side of the mountains. We stopped to see this alpine lake on the way.

The ruins themselves were pretty impressive. Construction started around 1200 BC making them some of the oldest ruins in Peru.

The ruins themselves were pretty impressive. Construction started around 1200 BC making them some of the oldest ruins in Peru.

There were lots of cool tunnels to explore.

There were lots of cool tunnels to explore.

The town of Chavín

The town of Chavín

The next day our landlords invited us to a party at their house. We had a good time chatting with some of the local expats. There were lots of kids for Quinn to play with too.

We saw a sign advertising kids workshops at the local community center, and Q decided that he wanted to try Karate.

We saw a sign advertising kids workshops at the local community center, and Q decided that he wanted to try Karate.

Last night, in a fit of 80s nostalgia, Jen and I watched the original Karate Kid. I thought it would seem campy and dated (like most 80s movies) but it was just as good as I remember it.

On Sunday I went on a guided mountain bike ride. It being the low season, it was just me and the guide. He's been riding here for 20 years and knows lots of great trails. The altitude is tough, but it was a great day.

On Sunday I went on a guided mountain bike ride. It being the low season, it was just me and the guide. He’s been riding here for 20 years and knows lots of great trails. The altitude is tough, but it was a great day.

Settling into Huaraz

Overdue for a period of work, we left the Llanganuco Mountain Lodge and headed for the town of Huaraz where we intended to stay for a month to work. We arrived on a Thursday and spent the next few days apartment hunting. We always go back and forth on whether to book a place ahead of time using Airbnb or to just show up and see what we can find. The big downside with Airbnb is that you’re guaranteed to always pay gringo prices.

In this case we decided to show up and shop in person since it’s the middle of the rainy season. Huaraz is a trekking and climbing town with numerous tour operators catering to adventurous visitors. With Huascarán National Park and it’s 6000 meter peaks on its doorstep, Huaraz has long been a haven for mountain climbers. Today the park’s highest peak is a popular training ground for those wishing to summit Everest.

In the rainy season though the town is fairly devoid of tourists and we thought we’d have little problem securing a place for the month. After a couple of days of searching we ended out in a small apartment owned by an American who runs a restaurant in town. It’s clean, modern, and inexpensive and we’re looking forward to spending a month here.

We spotted a Ford with a 'fro on the way up to the Cordillera.

We spotted a Ford with a ‘fro on the way up to the Cordillera.

We visited a museum in town in between apartment visits.

We visited a museum in town in between apartment visits.

Surprisingly we found it difficult to find a place to park the van for the month we’ll be in town. Usually there is no shortage of paid parking lots advertised, but in Huaraz there are few. We ended out walking around the neighborhood near our apartment asking shop owners until we finally found a parking lot. It had no sign out front, so the parking business in Huaraz must be good.

The parking lot we found features a litter of newborn puppies. Too cute.

The parking lot we found features a litter of newborn puppies. Too cute.

Our friends Melanie and Justin are continuing on, so we had a farewell dinner together in our new apartment. We enjoyed our time with them very much and will miss them. They are planning to ship Westy to Europe this (northern hemisphere) summer. While waiting for their vehicle to arrive, they’re going to rent what’s called a narrow boat in the UK. With one of these “RVs on the water” you can slowly travel the network of canals that formerly were used to transport cargo. Sounds like fun, and we can’t wait to hear the stories!

We moved into our new digs and enjoyed the view of the evening light on Huascarán from our rooftop patio.

We moved into our new digs and enjoyed the view of the evening light on Huascarán from our rooftop patio.

There's a lady downtown who sells blueberries on the street. This gave Witt an idea, and Jen turned it into a reality: Blueberry crisp! Mmmm. There will be more of these.

There’s a lady downtown who sells blueberries on the street. This gave Witt an idea, and Jen turned it into a reality: Blueberry crisp! Mmmm. There will be more of these.

We enjoyed three days of blissful, bountiful blueberries for dessert.

We enjoyed three days of blissful, bountiful blueberries for dessert.

We often return to the van to retrieve stuff we forgot, and we're always greeted by the puppies who are ever eager to play.

We often return to the van to retrieve stuff we forgot, and we’re always greeted by the puppies who are ever eager to play.

The Sparksmobile was in need of an oil change, and we got that taken care of this week.

The Sparksmobile was in need of an oil change, and we got that taken care of this week.

Before they got around to working on the van, the shop employees broke for lunch, so I figured I’d get something to eat as well. I ended up in a restaurant about a half-block from the shop that turned out to be the lunch spot for the local police. There must have been at least a dozen police officers eating there and soon I was not only the only gringo, but the only person not in uniform. I had the “menu of the day” which featured soup followed by oven baked fish with some kind of spicy marinade and rice. It was good, especially for the price of 5 soles (about $1.80).

One of the benefits of having an apartment is that we can spread out all of Quinn's toys and art supplies.

One of the benefits of having an apartment is that we can spread out all of Quinn’s toys and art supplies.