Archive for May 2015

Sucre, Bolivia

After crossing the border into Bolivia, our next stop was to be the city of Sucre where we intended to stay and work.

We had a choice of routes and weren’t sure which was better, and in the end followed the main road to La Paz as far as we could before turning off toward Sucre. The road was mostly dirt after that, but they’re in the process of paving it and most of it was pretty fast and we enjoyed the scenery.

The road we took to Sucre was an unexpected surprise, winding through beautiful countryside.

The road we took to Sucre was an unexpected surprise, winding through beautiful countryside.

We saw many ruins of small churches along the way. They tended to be set by themselves in the countryside rather than being in a village. They were strangely captivating.

We saw many ruins of small churches along the way. They tended to be set by themselves in the countryside rather than being in a village. They were strangely captivating.

We stopped to take pictures and explore one of them.

We stopped to take pictures and explore one of them.

The roof was caved in, but you could still see the altar in the back with simple carvings.

The roof was caved in, but you could still see the altar in the back with simple carvings.

Our first night in Bolivia was spent in a bush camp along a side road. There weren’t many people about, but those that were looked at our van with great curiosity.

The next day we passed through the dusty town of Oruro where we re-fueled. That night we made it to some thermal baths we had read about. Quinn and I enjoyed a swim in the warm waters.

Quinn's first bath in awhile...

Quinn’s first bath in awhile…

There was a whole lake that was warmed by the hot springs and in the morning the steam rose off the water into the chilly air.

There was a whole lake that was warmed by the hot springs and in the morning the steam rose off the water into the chilly air.

The next morning we drove to the town of Potosi, the site of a huge silver mine. We wanted to visit a silver museum and mint in the town, but when we tried to get into the only parking lot we could find, we were told that the man with the key was still asleep. At least he wasn’t dead.

With no place to park, and since we have to come back through Potosi on our way to the Salar de Uyuni, we decided to head to Sucre. When we arrived, we found a great campsite, but poor internet connections. With winter coming and temperatures in the Salar dropping with each passing week, we decided to only stay two weeks, and to live in the van instead of renting an apartment for a month.

We were happy we did, as we got to meet lots of other travelers there.

Our first sightseeing trip was to a local dinosaur park. It was really well done and Quinn had a great time.

Our first sightseeing trip was to a local dinosaur park. It was really well done and Quinn had a great time.

The park was conceived when a local cement factory was digging for raw materials and uncovered this sheer rock face covered in dinosaur footprints.

The park was conceived when a local cement factory was digging for raw materials and uncovered this sheer rock face covered in dinosaur footprints.

10,000 footprints have been cataloged, making this the largest dinosaur footprint site in the world.

10,000 footprints have been cataloged, making this the largest dinosaur footprint site in the world.

This is the rock face where the footprints are. Imagine this as a mud plain 70 million years ago with dinosaurs walking across it. Then through geological movements it was crushed into a V shape. There's no telling how far down it goes, and the other half exists somewhere nearby.

This is the rock face where the footprints are. Imagine this as a mud plain 70 million years ago with dinosaurs walking across it. Then through geological movements it was crushed into a V shape. There’s no telling how far down it goes, and the other half exists somewhere nearby.

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A Swiss visitor to the campsite brought out his alpenhorn and played a little for us. Yes, he kept an alpenhorn in his camper.

A Swiss visitor to the campsite brought out his alpenhorn and played a little for us. Yes, he kept an alpenhorn in his camper.

Another Swiss family arrived a few days later. Quinn had a great few days playing with their daughters.

Another Swiss family arrived a few days later. Quinn had a great few days playing with their daughters.

The city of Sucre was one of the first cities in Latin America to gain independence from Spain. It is still the official capital of Bolivia, even though the seat of government is in La Paz.

The city of Sucre was one of the first cities in Latin America to gain independence from Spain. It is still the official capital of Bolivia, even though the seat of government is in La Paz.

The climate here is similar to Colorado in the fall. The skies are vivid blue and the sun warms things up during the day following chilly nights.

The climate here is similar to Colorado in the fall. The skies are vivid blue and the sun warms things up during the day following chilly nights.

The Road Less Traveled

After our last post, we had some friends ask why we made the decision to drive directly from Peru to Chile instead of taking the more-commonly taken route via Cuzco and Lake Titicaca into Bolivia before entering Chile.

It is a very good question.

The answer is that we are fortunate to have visited many tourist highlights during a previous visit to Peru and Bolivia — including a fantastic hike of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, an excellent jungle trip to Manu National Park, an overland trip to La Paz, Bolivia, via Lake Titicaca (where we visited the towns of Puno and Copacabana and the Isla del Sol), a multi-day trek in Bolivia’s Cordillera Real and a mountain-biking trip down the Yungas (“Death”) Road.

As you might imagine we enjoyed these experiences very much, and we want to add to them by seeing different places on this trip than we’ve seen before.

Thus it seems that for this stretch we find ourselves on the road less traveled.

The border crossing between Peru and Chile was one of the easiest we’ve done. With friendly staff to help guide us to the various offices, the whole thing took less than two hours which is probably a record for us.

Chile is known for being very strict in not allowing fresh foods into their country, and since we were prepared for this it wasn’t a big deal. We handed over half a lime, some rotting bananas, and an avocado that had refused to ripen anyway. They actually didn’t even ask to look in the fridge. We have heard, though, that the officials get more aggressive in looking for culinary contraband at smaller borders.

Quinn checks out the steam engine imported from Germany in 1924.

Quinn checks out the steam engine imported from Germany in 1924 in the town of Arica.

Arica is home to a museum that was built on top of a pre-Incan burial site discovered during the construction of a hotel. The bodies are still in their original position, and a glass floor was built over them to provide a great view.

Arica is home to a museum that was built on top of a pre-Incan burial site discovered during the construction of a hotel. The bodies are still in their original position, and a glass floor was built over them to provide a great view.

Outside of town, we visited another museum that housed the world’s oldest mummies dating from as far back as 7000BC.

We didn't spend all of our time at museums. Arica had great waterfront park and walkway featuring lots of fun stuff for kids.

We didn’t spend all of our time at museums. Arica had great waterfront park and walkway featuring lots of fun stuff for kids.

From Arica we had a decision to make. We were ultimately headed for Sucre in Bolivia, but the question was how to get there. The shorter route, all on paved roads, or the longer route taking in two national parks high in the Andes but requiring 100-plus miles of unpaved roads in unknown condition. As you might guess from the fact that I’m even talking about it, we chose the latter.

That meant we would go south by another 200 miles to Iquique before turning east and heading into the mountains. Although it’s a major seaport in Northern Chile, Iquique’s history as port city for the former mining operations in the area gave it a certain charm. That combined with a campground with nice showers led us to stay an extra day.

Iquique's downtown area, featuring trolley tracks and wooden sidewalks, reminded us of an old West town.

Iquique’s downtown area, featuring trolley tracks and wooden sidewalks, reminded us of an old West town.

One of the reasons we chose the longer route was that it also gave us the opportunity to visit the ghost town of Humberstone. The town was the site of saltpeter mine that operated from 1876 until about 1930. It was fascinating, and we spent a few hours wandering around looking at people’s houses, community buildings, and the industrial mining works.

The various old locomotives rusting away in the desert were a highlight of the visit.

The various old locomotives rusting away in the desert were a highlight of the visit.

The old theater still had its seating and stage.

The old theater still had its seating and stage.

Teacher and student in the town's school house.

Teacher and student in the town’s school house.

We left Humberstone after lunch and headed into the Andes to the town of Colchane. Colchane lies at over 12,000 feet, and coming from sea level we had wanted to do an acclimatization stop somewhere on the way. It didn’t work out though, and Jen and I both had trouble sleeping the first couple of nights that we spent at high altitude.

In Colchane we planned to fuel up for a 100-mile trip through the backcountry along the Bolivian border. Unfortunately we discovered that Colchane doesn’t have a gas station. We asked around, and at first we thought we were going to have to cross into Bolivia for fuel, then come back to Chile. That would have taken at least a day, so we were glad we found out that one of the local stores sold fuel out of jerry cans.

Hope that stuff is clean! I was happy that I had taken the time to replace the fuel filter in Arequipa.

Hope that stuff is clean! I was happy that I had taken the time to replace the fuel filter in Arequipa.

From Colchane, our route would take us North through Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga, then past the Salar de Surire, through the Reserva Natural Las Vicuńas, and finally into Parque Nacional Lauca before depositing us on Chile 11 near the Bolivian border. As it turned out we would cross briefly into Bolivia inside one of the parks. Our GPS map showed us in Chile the whole time, but we passed through an opening in a barbed wire fence and a rusty old sign that said “Bolivia.” No matter; there was no one there to check our passports.

Alpacas and snow capped peaks. Can it get more Andean?

Alpacas and snow capped peaks. Can it get more Andean?

The whole area reminded me of Montana's tagline - big skies.

The whole area reminded me of Montana’s tagline – big skies.

The first night we camped just inside the first park at a hot spring that wasn’t really warm enough to want to get into. There we met a group of four friends traveling in a new Mercedes SUV. The car had hand controls and the driver was in a wheelchair.

We saw a few Rheas, which looked like a smaller version of an ostrich.

We saw a few Rheas, which looked like a smaller version of an ostrich.

The next day we stopped for lunch at another hot spring in the Salar de Surire. This one was hot enough, but at around 14,000 feet the wind was cold.

It was comfortable enough in the water, but getting out was breathtaking.

It was comfortable enough in the water, but getting out was breathtaking.

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We camped at another hot spring our second night.

We camped at another hot spring our second night.

Our campsite was at nearly 15,000 feet, and climbing up a small hill for sunset photos left me panting. But I did get a shot of the smoking volcano that we had been driving toward all day.

Our campsite was at nearly 15,000 feet, and climbing up a small hill for sunset photos left me panting. But I did get a shot of the smoking volcano that we had been driving toward all day.

The hot spring has an enclosed bath house to keep out the wind. The water temperature was perfect and we took the opportunity to clean up a bit.

The hot spring has an enclosed bath house to keep out the wind. The water temperature was perfect and we took the opportunity to clean up a bit.

The next day we came across this outdoor chapel. Stunning scenery, but attending Mass here would be a cold experience.

The next day we came across this outdoor chapel. Stunning scenery, but attending Mass here would be a cold experience.

Entering the final park along the route.

Entering the final park along the route.

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This picture is taken from the main road in the no-man's land between the Chilean and Bolivian border posts.

This picture is taken from the main road in the no-man’s land between the Chilean and Bolivian border posts.

If you’re thinking about doing this trip, the 100-mile drive from Colchane to Chile 11 near Putre took us less than 10 hours driving time including numerous photo stops. South of Salar de Surire the roads are slower and sometimes corrugated; north of the Salar the roads are faster.

We could have done the whole trip in two-wheel drive, although along portions of the road to the south of the Salar decent ground clearance would be advisable. Apparently during the rainy season these roads can become impassible.

As I mentioned there is no gas station in Colchane. The guy who sold us diesel also had gasoline available when we were there. The closest gas station in Chile is along the Pan-Am in the town of Pozo-Almonte. Once you reach Chile 11 on the northern end of the route, fuel is available shortly after crossing into Bolivia, or (presumably) in Putre on the Chilean side.

The Colca Canyon and South to Chile

Our last couple of weeks in Arequipa were mostly spent working and hanging out with our friends Michelle and Matt and their kids Emilia and Matthew. Quinn and Emilia really hit it off with their mutual love of Minecraft. We had another sleepover, and Jen and I even got to go out for a nice dinner while the two of them played!

We visited a cultural fair put on by people from the Colca region. It featured lots of local foods, music, and dancing.

We visited a cultural fair put on by people from the Colca region. It featured lots of local foods, music, and dancing.

We did a tour of the inside of the main cathedral in town. The organ, made in Belgium, has over 2000 pipes!

We did a tour of the inside of the main cathedral in town. The organ, made in Belgium, has over 2000 pipes!

The rest of the cathedral was equally impressive.

The rest of the cathedral was equally impressive.

We got to climb up onto the roof for the view. In 2001 the bell tower behind us collapsed during an earthquake and fell through the roof of the cathedral. Amazingly no one was hurt!

We got to climb up onto the roof for the view. In 2001 the bell tower behind us collapsed during an earthquake and fell through the roof of the cathedral. Amazingly no one was hurt!

Quinn was more interested in playing with the sewing machine base that served as our table at the restaurant we visited for lunch.

Quinn was more interested in playing with the sewing machine base that served as our table at the restaurant we visited for lunch.

After lunch we got to see a May Day parade work its way through the Plaza de Armas.

After lunch we got to see a May Day parade work its way through the Plaza de Armas.

On our last weekend we went to a bull fight in a nearby town. There are no matadors; the bulls fight each other. Which ever bull walks away from the fight first loses.

On our last weekend we went to a bull fight in a nearby town. There are no matadors; the bulls fight each other. Which ever bull walks away from the fight first loses.

The audience was mostly Peruvian cowboys. We were the only gringos in attendance.

The audience was mostly Peruvian cowboys. We were the only gringos in attendance.

In truth, the bull fighting wasn’t all that exciting. It mostly consisted of the bulls’ owners trying to drag them around with ropes to get them to engage with each other. Supposedly if they won’t fight they bring in a cow to get their blood pumping, but we didn’t see that happen.

On Monday evening we dropped Quinn off at Emilia’s house to play Minecraft, and Jen and I got a rare evening out together. We picked the top-rated restaurant in Trip Advisor and weren’t disappointed. They didn’t have any tables, so we sat at a small coffee table in a waiting area next to a fireplace and ordered appetizers. We had a cheese plate, followed by a selection of meats served on hot volcanic stone so they were still sizzling after 10 minutes. We enjoyed Pisco sours, a bottle of wine, and finished the whole thing up with a chocolate mousse. Yum!!

On Tuesday we packed up the van, planning to spend a few days touring the Colca Canyon before heading into Chile.

From Arequipa we climbed to a pass at 16,000 feet before descending into the canyon. We all felt tired and achy at the top.

From Arequipa we climbed to a pass at 16,000 feet before descending into the canyon. We all felt tired and achy at the top.

We found a great campsite on the rim of the canyon where we could enjoy the sunset.

We found a great campsite on the rim of the canyon where we could enjoy the sunset.

The canyon features thousand year old terraces overlooked by snow-capped peaks.

The canyon features thousand year old terraces overlooked by snow-capped peaks.

But the real highlight was the next morning. The area is home to numerous Andean condors, and they did not dissappoint, soaring majestically across the landscape.

But the real highlight was the next morning. The area is home to numerous Andean condors, and they did not dissappoint, soaring majestically across the landscape.

Jen went for a short hike to enjoy the view and the beautiful flowers.

Jen went for a short hike to enjoy the view and the beautiful flowers.

We visited the canyon as part of a loop that would take us back to the Pan Am. After we left the area frequented by tour groups, the road turned to dirt and the adventure began. After stopping to buy food for dinner in a small village market, we headed out thinking that we’d make it to the beach that night to camp. That proved optimistic, as it would take us about 7 hours to cover the next 150km of dirt roads.

The first part of the drive was mostly above 12,000 feet. The road was dusty and the scenery stunning.

The first part of the drive was mostly above 12,000 feet. The road was dusty and the scenery stunning.

The driver of this truck stopped while we were eating lunch to see if we were okay. We talked for awhile and he told us a little about the region before he headed off on his way.

The driver of this truck stopped while we were eating lunch to see if we were okay. We talked for awhile and he told us a little about the region before he headed off on his way.

We saw some vicuñas...

We saw some vicuñas…

... and even pink flamingos.

… and even pink flamingos.

After awhile we decided to pull off and camp rather than pushing on, thinking that the countryside here would be better than a gritty gas station along the Pan Am.

After awhile we decided to pull off and camp rather than pushing on, thinking that the countryside here would be better than a gritty gas station along the Pan Am.

Shortly after we set up camp a man walked by herding sheep. I asked him if we could camp here and he smiled and said yes. A few other people walked past and looked at us curiously, but they mostly seemed pretty shy and reserved.

The next morning just as we were preparing to depart a woman walked up to the van and offered us a plate of food – cooked potatoes and corn. We were amazed by her generosity. We graciously accepted the food, gave her a small gift in exchange and waved goodbye. That night we incorporated her gift into our meal.

The area near where we camped was teeming with bird life.

The area near where we camped was teeming with bird life.

It took us about 2 hours to cover the remaining 50km back to the highway. The road seemed to get worse the closer we got, and the scenery returned to the lifeless dust bowl that seems to dominate the Peruvian coast. We dropped off the passenger we’d picked up along the way and got out to kiss the blessed asphalt. (Not really, but we talked about it. 🙂 )

So smooth! So fast!

So smooth! So fast!

The plan was to go to the coast and work our way down the beach toward Chile. No sooner than I had observed that we had been from 16,000 feet to sea level in two days, we came upon a roadblock. People were lounging beside their cars, and this didn’t seem like a regular road construction stop. I got out to talk to a truck driver and discovered that there was some kind of fire and that he had been there for three days. We went up to the head of the line and a police officer told us that we couldn’t pass. When we asked how long the delay would be he smiled and shrugged his shoulders.

With that we turned around and went back to the Pan Am. We tried one other route to the coast and were again stopped by the police, who told us that there was fighting going on. We still weren’t sure exactly what was happening, but by this time it was getting late and we needed a place to stay. We found a ravine that we could drive into and be hidden from the highway. It wasn’t great, but it was very dark and the stars were beautiful.

The next day we drove past this enormous solar PV farm.

The next day we drove past this enormous solar PV farm.

Next stop Chile!