Archive for July 2015

The Land of Water

After spending so much time at high altitudes with dry, cold weather, we were looking forward to getting to Buenos Aires at sea level, where we thought it would be a little warmer. It was more humid, but at 34 degrees south latitude, it’s still on the chilly side.

We arrived in the Buenos Aires region and found the home of the amazing Herman Zapp family, who have been traveling for 15 years in a vintage car. They are currently in East Africa, but invited us to stay at their home outside Buenos Aires while we attempted to get our fridge repaired. Their home is being taken care of by Herman’s cousin, Eduardo, and his wife, Clarita, and their son, Gaspar. They gave us a very warm welcome and made us feel at home right away, even sharing meals with us.

By the second day we were there, Eduardo had already located someone who thought he could help with our fridge. Not wanting to send us out into BA traffic alone, he rode in the back of the van and directed us to the proper address. José, the fridge guy, was very helpful and to our great surprise had the original replacement compressor for our fridge in his shop. It wasn’t cheap, since imported parts in Argentina carry a 50% import duty, but the prospect of a working fridge in 3 days’ time was too good to pass up and we asked him to do the work.

We took a local commuter train into the city to visit a railway museum there. Unfortunately it was closed for a holiday, but at least there was a steam engine out front to play on.

We took a local commuter train into the city to visit a railway museum there. Unfortunately it was closed for a holiday, but at least there was a steam engine out front to play on.


Eduardo and Clarita took us on a wonderful tour of downtown BA. It was their independence day holiday, and we enjoyed some of the festivities.

Eduardo and Clarita took us on a wonderful tour of downtown BA. It was their independence day holiday, and we enjoyed some of the festivities.


The original port has been gentrified into a pedestrian walkway with restaurants and expensive waterfront condos.

The original port has been gentrified into a pedestrian walkway with restaurants and expensive waterfront condos.

Money in Argentina has proven to be a challenge. We’ve known for awhile that we needed to bring US dollars with us, since using ATM machines or credit cards gets you the official exchange rate of 9 pesos to the dollar, while the black market rate is as high as 13+ pesos to the dollar. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to find someone willing to exchange money at a good rate outside of downtown Buenos Aires. We were at times frustrated be the amount of time we spent trying to buy pesos, and so overall we didn’t get as good of a rate as we could have. Our best bet would have been to change most of our money when we were in downtown BA.

We happened upon this amazing Gothic cathedral while in the town of Lujan.

We happened upon this amazing Gothic cathedral while in the town of Lujan.


Argentinians love their yerba mate, a tea made from herbs and drunk from special mugs. It's common to see them toting around a thermos of hot water for making the tea.

Argentinians love their yerba mate, a tea made from herbs and drunk from special mugs. It’s common to see them toting around a thermos of hot water for making the tea.


Many gas stations offered a hot water dispenser where folks would re-fill their thermos for the road.

Many gas stations offered a hot water dispenser where folks would re-fill their thermos for the road.


We spent a couple of down days enjoying the trampoline and other toys at the Zapp house.

We spent a couple of down days enjoying the trampoline and other toys at the Zapp house.


Clarita, Eduardo, and ? were wonderful hosts, and we left Buenos Aires with new friends.

Clarita, Eduardo, and Gaspar were wonderful hosts, and we left Buenos Aires with new friends.


From Buenos Aires it took us three days to reach the border with Paraguay at Posadas. We enjoyed a nice campsite along the river en route.

From Buenos Aires it took us three days to reach the border with Paraguay at Posadas. We enjoyed a nice campsite along the river en route.

In Posadas we camped on the street near the river. At around 8pm a storm blew up complete with high winds and hail. Fearing for the canvas sides of our poptop, we lowered the top and moved up the road to a spot more protected from the wind.

After about 24 hours spent getting Paraguayan visas, we crossed the border into the Paraguayan town of Encarnación. Jen found a recommended mechanic on iOverlander, and we decided to stop to get our oil changed. While that was getting done, we walked to a nearby supermarket to stock up on groceries and even found an ATM machine that dispensed US dollars to replace those we’d spent in Argentina. All in under an hour! We were able to leave town that day and make it to a very nice campsite in the countryside.

The next day we stopped to visit the ruins of a couple of Jesuit missionary churches.

The next day we stopped to visit the ruins of a couple of Jesuit missionary churches.

Although it was still very overcast and rainy, the drive up the eastern side of Paraguay was very pretty. There were fields of soy beans everywhere, along with lots of tractor dealerships offering expensive new equipment. Signs for the likes of infamous agro-businesses like Cargil and Monsanto were everywhere, and we wondered what kind of genetic experiments they’re doing down here. We learned later that Paraguay is the world’s third largest exporter of soy beans.

We took the opportunity while in Paraguay to visit the Itaipu dam, the world's second largest hydro plant. This is a 1/100 scale model of it built during construction. In 2013, the dam produced over 98 TWh, supplying 75% of Paraguay's electricity needs and 17% of Brazil's.

We took the opportunity while in Paraguay to visit the Itaipu dam, the world’s second largest hydro plant. This is a 1/100 scale model of it built during construction. In 2013, the dam produced over 98 TWh, supplying 75% of Paraguay’s electricity needs and 17% of Brazil’s.

Paraguay, with it’s duty-free import status throughout the country, draws shoppers from all over South America. Cities like Ciudad del Este feature huge shopping centers. If you’re from Argentina, you can come here and buy anything from flat screen TVs to tires to whole cars for half of what they cost at home. The same is true for Brazil. In contrast to the rampant consumerism, the poorer side of Paraguay, especially in the cities, reminded us of Guatemala, with donkey carts vying for space against new Audis in the congested city streets. Traffic was some of the most congested and chaotic we’ve seen, and two days of driving around the city getting visas for Brazil left us ready to leave.

And leave we did, for the Brazilian city of Foz de Iguaçu. Everything was suddenly much more orderly on the Brazilian side, with actual traffic lights and drivers who obeyed them. We were happy to arrive at a hostel / campground near the national park that is home to the famous waterfall.

The next afternoon we went to visit the park. It being a weekend, there were lots of visitors, and we ended out standing in lines for tickets and bus rides to various parts of the park. It was worth it though, as we had a beautiful day to enjoy the falls.

Quinn enjoyed the double decker bus ride in the park.

Quinn enjoyed the double decker bus ride in the park.


Dad picks up a colorful hitchhiker

Dad picks up a colorful hitchhiker


We went for a boat ride that got us up close, personal, and soaking wet to the falls.

We went for a boat ride that got us up close, personal, and soaking wet to the falls.

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This video provides a good overview of what the falls look like from the air (since we decided not to spring for the helicopter flight)

Into Argentina and Crossing a Continent

After a beautiful sunset, we enjoyed a very quiet night on the Salar de Atacama.

After a beautiful sunset, we enjoyed a very quiet night on the Salar de Atacama.

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After taking in the sunrise the next morning it was time to head for Argentina.

After taking in the sunrise the next morning it was time to head for Argentina.

On the way we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.

On the way we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.

There were frozen salt lakes near the 14,000 ft pass we crossed. Lest anyone think we are hard core, we saw three long-distance cyclists on the same route.

There were frozen salt lakes near the 14,000 ft pass we crossed. Lest anyone think we are hard core, we saw three long-distance cyclists on the same route.

The Argentinian border post at Paso Sico.

The Argentinian border post at Paso Sico.

This could be one of the world’s loneliest border posts. After walking around inside the empty office looking for someone to stamp our passports, we finally found them eating lunch. We waited for them to finish and then completed our paperwork. We were at the border for more than an hour and saw no one else and no other vehicles.

After a four-hour drive on dirt roads we stopped for the night in the dusty mining town of San Antonio de los Cobres. (Saint Anthony of Copper – I didn’t know there was a saint of copper.) We couldn’t find a good camping option, so we splurged on a hotel with hot showers and heated rooms. Oh the luxury! There we met Chris, a motorcyclist from California.

We stop for every steam engine we see.

We stop for every steam engine we see.

We were surprised on our way into Cafayate by the amazing Quebrada de Cafayate. It reminded us of Utah and made for a beautiful afternoon's drive.

We were surprised on our way into Cafayate by the amazing Quebrada de Cafayate. It reminded us of Utah and made for a beautiful afternoon’s drive.

We spent a week in Cafayate, mostly working, but also getting a chance to taste some of the region's wines.

We spent a week in Cafayate, mostly working, but also getting a chance to taste some of the region’s wines.

Apparently eating ice cream in Argentina is the social thing to do. We even found some made without cow milk!

Apparently eating ice cream in Argentina is the social thing to do. We even found some made without cow milk!

After a few days in Cafayate, the Adventure Trio rolled in on their motorbikes. They are a family of three riding BMW motorcycles through the Americas. We first met them three years ago at the Overland Expo where their son Jack gave a talk on traveling as a family. We spent two nights together in Cafayate before heading toward Córdoba.

The Flying Sparks with the Adventure Trio. Left to right they are Sandy, Terry, and Jack.

The Flying Sparks with the Adventure Trio. Left to right they are Sandy, Terry, and Jack.

We were heading in the same direction, so we decided to meet up the first night in the town of Recreo. It happened to be the fourth of July, so we got some steaks and grilled them over the campfire. It was nice to have friends to celebrate with!

Next stop, Buenos Aires, and hopefully a working fridge!